Materials for Tying Your Own Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear
The Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear is a classic and highly effective nymph pattern that mimics a variety of aquatic insects. Below is a comprehensive list of materials you will need to tie this versatile fly. While the ingredients listed below are traditional, feel free to experiment with different materials and colors to create variations that work best for your fishing conditions.
- Hook – A Mustad 3906b (nymph hook) or equivalent. Choose a hook size between 18 and 10 depending on the size of the nymph you wish to tie. For a more realistic representation of smaller nymphs, a size 16 or 18 hook works best. For larger variations that mimic bigger nymphs or mayflies, opt for sizes 12 or 10. Ensure that the hook is strong enough to handle the weight of the materials and the pressures of fishing.
- Thread – 8/0 to 6/0 thread, depending on the size of the hook. A finer thread, such as 8/0, is best for smaller hooks, while a thicker 6/0 thread is more suitable for larger flies. Choose a color that blends well with the natural materials, such as a brown, tan, or olive thread. You’ll want the thread to be strong enough to handle the pressure of winding and tying in the materials without breaking.
- Weighted Option – While not mandatory, adding weight to the fly can make it sink faster and get to the strike zone quickly. You can use lead wire in sizes .015 or .025, depending on how heavy you want the fly to be. Alternatively, you can use a bead head (in a gold or copper finish) to provide extra weight, while also adding a bit of flash to attract fish. If you use a bead head, simply tie the fly off behind it, securing the thread tightly.
- Tail – For the tail, you have a few great options. The traditional material is hare’s mask, but you can also use rooster tail fibers or squirrel tail for a softer, more natural look. Hare’s mask provides a slightly stiffer, more structured tail, while squirrel tail and rooster feathers have a more delicate, flowy motion in the water. The tail should be about the length of the hook shank or slightly longer for a more streamlined profile.
- Ribbing – Small gold tinsel or copper wire is commonly used for ribbing. The gold ribbing gives the fly its signature “gold-ribbed” look, and the reflective shine of gold or copper helps attract fish. Choose a small diameter of wire (copper is a great option) or a fine gold tinsel, which should be just thick enough to create a visible segmentation in the body without overpowering the fly.
- Body – The body is constructed from hare’s mask dubbing, which gives the fly its natural, buggy appearance. This dubbing is ideal for creating a segmented body that is not too smooth or artificial-looking. Use a dubbing tool or your fingers to spin the hare’s mask onto the thread, ensuring the body has a slight taper as you move forward from the tail to the thorax.
- Thorax – For the thorax, use more hare’s mask dubbing. The thorax is typically a little thicker and more pronounced than the rest of the body. Focus on building it up, creating a slightly larger segment toward the head of the fly, which will help it look more lifelike and attractive to fish.
- Wing Case – The wing case is traditionally tied with turkey quill feathers, which have a translucent, natural look that mimics the wing case of many aquatic insects. Carefully tie the turkey quill on top of the thorax, folding it over when you are ready to finish the fly. This will give the appearance of an insect about to hatch or an immature nymph.
By following these materials and selecting the appropriate sizes for your hook and thread, you’ll be well on your way to tying your own Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear fly.
Instructions for Tying the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear Fly
Tying the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear is a rewarding process that results in a versatile and effective nymph. Follow these detailed steps to create your own variation of this classic fly pattern. While these steps are fairly standard, feel free to adjust based on your preference or fishing conditions.
- Wrap Thread to the Rear of the Hook Bend
Start by attaching your thread to the hook shank just behind the hook eye. Wrap it tightly around the hook, then continue wrapping towards the rear of the hook until you reach the bend. This creates a solid foundation for the materials you will add. Maintain consistent thread tension throughout the process to avoid any loose wraps. - Tie in the Tail
Cut a small bunch of hare’s mask fur or red squirrel tail fibers to form the tail. The tail should be about the length of the hook shank or slightly longer. Tie it in at the rear of the hook, securing the fibers with a few tight wraps of thread. Make sure the tail fibers are aligned properly before securing them in place. - Tie in the Ribbing
Next, take your small gold tinsel or copper wire for the ribbing. Secure it on the underside of the hook shank, leaving the tag end hanging toward the rear of the hook. The ribbing will be wrapped over the body later, so make sure it is firmly attached to avoid slipping. - Dub the Body
Take a small amount of hare’s mask dubbing and twist it onto your thread. Start forming the body by creating a slightly tapered shape, with the thickest portion of the body near the rear and tapering toward the front. The body should cover approximately two-thirds of the hook shank. Be sure to leave enough space for the thorax and wing case towards the front of the hook. Keep the body’s shape somewhat uneven for a more natural, buggy look. - Wrap the Ribbing Over the Body
Now, take the gold tinsel or copper wire and begin wrapping it over the body in the opposite direction of the dubbing. This creates segmentation and adds strength to the body. Space each ribbing turn evenly, ensuring they are not too close or too far apart. Secure the ribbing at the front of the body once you’ve wrapped it all the way up. - Tie in the Wing Case
Now it’s time to tie in the turkey quill for the wing case. Cut a small section of turkey quill and tie it in on top of the thorax area. Make sure the quill is long enough to fold over the thorax later, but not too long that it overwhelms the rest of the fly. Secure the quill with a few tight wraps of thread, ensuring it’s positioned directly on top of the body. - Dub the Thorax
Take a bit more hare’s mask dubbing and create a slightly thicker, fatter thorax. This should be the heaviest part of the fly, as it mimics the head and thorax of the nymph. The thorax should taper slightly toward the front but still be fuller than the body. - Pull the Wing Case Over the Thorax
Now, gently pull the turkey quill wing case over the thorax to create the appearance of a wing case covering the nymph’s back. Secure the quill in place with several wraps of thread to hold it down. You may need to use a whip finish to really lock it in place. - Build the Head
With the wing case secured, create a neat head by tapering the thread from the thorax to the hook eye. This will provide a clean and professional-looking finish. Tie off the thread firmly and trim any excess. The head should be small and smooth, giving the fly a natural, streamlined appearance. - Add Head Cement
To ensure durability and a smooth finish, apply a small drop of thin head cement to the head of the fly. I also like to apply a small drop to the top of the wing case for extra strength and to create a more realistic sheen. Let the cement dry before handling the fly to prevent it from becoming too tacky. - Bead Head Option
If you’re using a bead head, simply tie off the fly right behind the bead. The bead will add weight and help the fly sink more quickly, making it ideal for deeper waters or faster currents. - Create Quick Legs
For a quick and simple way to add legs to your nymph, use a dubbing brush or needle to pull out some of the thorax dubbing on both sides of the fly. Gently brush the dubbing from the sides of the thorax to create legs that mimic the natural appendages of a nymph. Be careful not to overdo it; a little bit of brushing can go a long way. You can also lightly run the dubbing brush over the abdomen to create a more “buggy” look. The more you pick and brush, the more natural and alive the fly will appear in the water.
Original Article By Brad Berlin
About The Author
Brad Berlin has been tying flies and fly fishing the streams of northeast and central Pennsylvania for over 30 years. He has guided on area streams and the Susquehanna River. Brad has taught classes in fly tying and casting and has served as president of the Columbia County Chapter of Trout Unlimited.
